Finnish Researchers Develop Scalable Method for Producing Mycelium Leather
A government-backed project in Finland has created a new way to make large amounts of mycelium leather, enabling large-scale production of the biomaterial and potentially disrupting the traditional leather industry.
The use of mycelium leather has been gaining traction in the fashion and automotive industries, with companies such as Bottega Veneta releasing limited-edition lines of accessories made from the material. However, the production of mycelium leather has been limited to small scales, preventing it from entering the mainstream.
## Introduction to Mycelium Leather Mycelium leather is a biomaterial made from the root-like structure of mushrooms. It has the potential to replace traditional leather, which is often linked to deforestation, biodiversity loss, and hazardous chemicals. According to Manuel Arias-Barrantes from the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, many people are looking for alternatives to fossil fuel-based and animal-derived materials, yet scalable alternatives remain limited.
## Pulp-Based Mycelium Method The VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland has developed a pulp-based approach to growing mycelium leather, enabling large-scale production of the biomaterial. The method involves submerging the fungus Trichoderma reesei in a nutrient-rich liquid and growing it inside fermentation tanks. The resulting pulp-like mass is then harvested, washed, and mixed with sorbitol and cellulose to enhance its flexibility and strength. The mixture is then spread into thin sheets and dried to create a non-woven fabric akin to leather.
## Comparison of Mycelium Leather to Traditional Leather The production of traditional leather is an energy- and water-intensive process that generates many hazardous chemicals. In contrast, mycelium leather has the potential to be a more sustainable alternative. The following table compares the environmental impact of traditional leather, synthetic leather, and mycelium leather: | Material | CO2e per sq m | Breakdown Time | | --- | --- | --- | | Traditional Leather | 110kg | Years | | Synthetic Leather | 15.8kg | 20-500 years | | Mycelium Leather | - | 6 weeks |
The VTT study found that the mycelium leather broke down in water within 28 days and completely disintegrated under industrial composting conditions in about six weeks. This makes it a more sustainable alternative to traditional leather and synthetic leather. The pulp-based production process also gives researchers more control over the final material, enabling them to adjust its properties, add colors and textures, or even layer it onto cotton fabrics.
